
FAQ - RV TOWING, OPERATIONAL AND AFTERMARKET
TOP ASKED TOWING, OPERATIONAL AND AFTERMARKET QUESTIONS
What towing equipment do I need to pull a camper?
- A properly rated tow vehicle
Your vehicle must be able to handle the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of the camper. Always check your vehicle’s tow capacity in the owner’s manual or manufacturer specs. - Hitch receiver
Most travel trailers require a class III or higher hitch receiver, mounted to the tow vehicle’s frame. - Weight distribution hitch with sway control
For added safety and stability, a weight distribution hitch helps balance the load, while sway control keeps the camper steady on the road. We recommend the Original Equal-i-zer Hitch for a dependable all-in-one setup. - Trailer brake controller
If your camper has electric brakes (common on units over 3,000 lbs GVWR), your tow vehicle will need a brake controller to operate them. - 7-pin wiring harness
This connector powers your camper’s running lights, brake lights, electric brakes, and battery charging while towing. - Towing mirrors
Extended or clip-on towing mirrors improve visibility and are often required by law when towing wider trailers.
Can I walk on my camper roof?
It depends on the construction of your specific camper. Many modern RVs do have walkable roofs, but not all are designed to support the full weight of a person.
Here’s how to tell:
- A ladder on the back is usually a sign the roof is walkable, but not a guarantee.
- Contact a dealer who sells your RV brand—they can advise if your model has a walkable roof.
- Rubber or membrane-style roofs may only be walkable in areas where there’s support underneath, such as roof trusses.
Tips if you need to go up there:
- Wear soft, clean shoes to avoid damaging the roof surface.
- Walk cautiously and consider staying on your hands and knees to spread out weight.
- Use a sheet of plywood if you're unsure—it distributes weight more safely.
- Never walk on the roof when it's wet, icy, or windy.
How long will the battery last when camping with no 110-volt power (Battery only)?
Battery life depends on several factors, but in most standard RV setups, a fully charged 12-volt battery will last 1 to 3 days when used conservatively.
What affects battery life:
- What you're powering — lights, water pump, furnace fan, and fridge control boards all draw power. High-usage items like the furnace can drain a battery in a day or less.
- Battery type and condition — a single 12-volt lead-acid battery has limited capacity. Upgraded options like AGM, lithium, or dual-battery setups can provide more runtime.
- Temperature — cold weather reduces battery performance, especially if you’re using the furnace.
- No 110-volt power means you cannot use air conditioning, microwave, or outlets unless you have an inverter and enough battery capacity or generator backup.
Tips to make your battery last longer:
- Switch to LED lights
- Limit furnace use by using extra blankets or a catalytic heater.
- Don’t leave water pumps or lights on when not in use
- Charge electronics while driving or pre-charge battery packs to bring with you
How long will my Propane last?
That depends on how many appliances you’re running and how often you use them. On average, a full 20 lb propane tank will last 3 to 7 days of typical camping use.
What affects propane usage:
- Furnace – This is the biggest propane user. Running it consistently in cold weather can empty a 20 lb tank in just 2–3 days.
- Water heater – Uses propane when heating water unless it's set to electric (if available).
- Refrigerator – Some refrigerators use propane, while others are 110-volt or 12-volt only. If yours runs on propane, it will use a small but steady amount.
- Stove/oven – Light use doesn’t consume much, but daily cooking adds up.
- Grill or outdoor kitchen – Can be a big draw if used frequently.
Tips to make your propane last longer:
- Use the furnace only when needed. Layer up or use a space heater if connected to shore power.
- Set your water heater to electric if you’re plugged into shore power.
- Cook outside with charcoal or over the fire when possible.
- Bring an extra tank for longer trips or boondocking.
Why do I need a Brake Control?
A brake control (or brake controller) is required to safely tow most campers—and in many cases, it's the law.
When you're towing a camper with electric brakes (common on trailers over 3,000 lbs GVWR), your vehicle’s brake pedal doesn't automatically activate the trailer's brakes. That’s where the brake controller comes in. It sends a signal from your tow vehicle to the trailer, telling it when—and how hard—to apply its brakes.
Without it, your trailer is relying solely on your vehicle's brakes, which can lead to:
- Longer stopping distances
- Poor control, especially downhill
- Increased wear on your vehicle's braking system
- Higher risk of jackknifing or trailer sway
In short: brake control helps your tow vehicle and camper work together to stop smoothly and safely.
Are the four corner stabilizer jacks for leveling camper?
No—they’re not designed for leveling. The four corner stabilizer jacks on your camper are meant to stabilize, not lift or level.
Their purpose is to reduce movement and bounce once the camper is already level. Using them to level the camper can damage the jacks or the frame.
How to level your camper properly:
- Use leveling blocks, pads, or a ramp under the wheels to get side-to-side level
- Use the tongue jack (on travel trailers) or landing gear (on fifth wheels) to adjust front-to-back level
- Once the camper is level, lower the stabilizer jacks to firm up the foundation and reduce movement inside
- For even more stability, consider using ratcheting wheel chocks between your tires—this helps lock the trailer in place and reduce front-to-back movement.
How much weight can my RV slide out hold?
Most RV slide-outs are designed to support 600 to 1,500 pounds of evenly distributed weight. This includes the furniture that came installed (like sofas or dinettes) and any additional items you place inside.
Things to keep in mind:
- Avoid adding heavy furniture or storage items unless you know the slide-out can safely handle the load.
- Weight limits vary by RV brand and construction.
If you're unsure about the limits of your slide-out, contact Tri City RV—our team can help you determine what’s safe for your specific setup.
Do I Need braces under my slide outs?
No—slide-outs are designed to be fully self-supporting when extended. Using aftermarket braces or support is not recommended and can cause damage by disrupting the natural flex and movement designed into the system.
Key Points:
Modern slide-outs are engineered to hold their weight without external support.
- Adding braces can void your warranty or lead to alignment issues.
- If your slide feels unstable or sags noticeably, contact Tri City RV for an inspection.
Does it hurt to leave slide out?
It won’t cause immediate damage, but we recommend bringing slide-outs in during extended periods of non-use.
Here’s why:
- Slide-outs have the best seal when in the closed (in) position, helping protect against water, dust, and pests.
- Leaving them out for long periods can add stress to the slide mechanisms and seals.
- It's good practice to cycle your slide-outs in and out occasionally to keep the system operating smoothly.
If you're storing your RV or not using it for a while, keeping the slide-outs in is the best approach.
GE RVthermostat, air conditioner (A/C) will not shut off when the furnace is running.
Learn more by watching this video: https://youtube.com/shorts/1jB...
How loud is the A/C unit, and what’s the difference between ducted and non-ducted systems?
RV air conditioners usually operate between 60–70 decibels, about the same as a normal conversation. The actual noise level you’ll notice depends on whether your system is ducted or non-ducted.
Non-ducted A/C systems:
- These blow air directly from a large ceiling assembly.
- Because the fan and motor are right in the center of the RV, they tend to be louder, especially when standing underneath.
- Noise level is typically in the 65–70 dB range.
Ducted A/C systems:
- These push air through ceiling ducts, helping move the noise farther from living spaces.
- Generally quieter inside the RV, especially in areas away from the main unit.
- Noise level is typically in the 55–65 dB range.
Ways to reduce A/C noise:
- Add a silencer kit (some reduce noise by 8–10 dB)
- Keep filters clean and vents unobstructed
- Choose a ducted model if quiet operation is important to you
How does the refrigerator work in RV’s?
RV refrigerators are designed to run on multiple power sources to give you flexibility when traveling. Most use an absorption cooling system or a 12-volt compressor system, depending on the model.
Common power sources include:
- Propane (LP gas)
- 120V electric (when plugged into shore power)
- 12V battery power (especially with newer units)
There are two main types of RV refrigerators:
2-way absorption refrigerators
- Run on propane or 120V electric
- Depend on heat to cycle refrigerant
- Take longer to cool (8–24 hours) and work best when the RV is level
12-volt compressor refrigerators
- Run only on 12V battery power
- Cool quickly, perform better on the move, and aren’t affected by RV leveling
- Becoming more common in newer RVs due to better battery and solar technology
12V models are especially popular with solar-equipped and travel-focused RVs because they’re more efficient, cool faster, and work better while driving.
How big are the water tanks in RVs?
Water tank sizes vary by RV type and size, but here’s a general guide:
Fresh water tank
- Small travel trailers: 15–40 gallons
- Mid-size RVs: 40–60 gallons
- Large fifth wheels and toy haulers: 70–150+ gallons
Gray water tank (sinks and shower)
- Typically, 25–65 gallons
- Some RVs have separate gray tanks for kitchen and bathroom use
Black water tank (toilet waste)
- Usually 20–50 gallons
- Sometimes paired with a black tank flush system for easier cleaning
Toy haulers and fifth wheels often come with larger holding tank capacities to support longer stays, bigger groups, or extended boondocking.
Are campers 30- or 50-amp service?
Most RVs are equipped with either 30-amp or 50-amp electrical service, depending on their size and power needs.
- 30-amp service is common in smaller travel trailers and compact RVs. It has 1 hot wire and delivers up to 3,600 watts.
- 50-amp service is found in larger RVs like fifth wheels and toy haulers. It has 2 hot wires and delivers up to 12,000 watts.
Important safety warning:
Never plug your RV directly into a 220-volt residential outlet (like those used for dryers or ovens). Doing so can instantly damage your RV’s electrical system and appliances.
Always use the correct adapter and plug into a verified RV-specific outlet—typically found at campgrounds, RV parks, or designated home hookups.
Can I camp in the winter?
Yes, you can camp in the winter. However, we recommend dry camping during freezing conditions.
Dry camping means avoiding use of the RV’s water system—no running water, showers, or toilet flushes—so you don’t risk freezing and damaging your plumbing. Instead, use bottled water and campground restrooms when available.
Winter camping tips:
- Make sure your RV is fully winterized before the first frost.
- This includes draining all water lines, adding RV antifreeze, and bypassing the water heater.
- Remove exterior ice makers and bring them inside, as they are especially vulnerable to freezing.
- Use portable heaters, thermal curtains, and RV skirting if camping in very cold temps.
Where do I get propane tanks filled?
You can refill your propane tanks at most propane refill centers, travel plazas, hardware stores, or RV parks. If you prefer, you can remove the tanks yourself and take them to a nearby location.
Or, just stop by Tri City RV—we're happy to help. We can:
- Remove your tanks
- Refill them on-site
- Reinstall them properly so you're ready to go
We also refill motorhomes with onboard propane tanks—no need to remove anything.
Does Tri City RV do insurance repairs?
Yes, Tri City RV handles insurance repairs. We work directly with all major insurance companies to make the process as smooth as possible for you.
Whether it's storm damage, collisions, or other unexpected issues, we can:
- Provide estimates and photos for your claim
- Coordinate directly with your insurance adjuster
- Complete the repair work to get you back on the road quickly
Does Tri City RV deliver campers?
Yes, we do. Tri City RV has a logistics division that coordinates the transport of both new and pre-owned RVs purchased from our dealership.
Whether you're located in-state or across the country, we can arrange delivery directly to your home, campsite, or seasonal lot. Our goal is to make your RV ownership experience as smooth and convenient as possible.
If you're considering a purchase and need delivery, just let us know—we’ll walk you through the options.
Does Tri City RV install fifth wheel hitches?
Yes, we offer fifth wheel hitch installations when you purchase a new fifth wheel from our dealership.
Our team will make sure your truck is properly equipped and matched to your new RV, so you're ready to tow safely and confidently. If you have questions about compatibility or hitch options, we're here to help guide you through the setup.
Is there better RV mattresses available?
Yes, there are upgraded RV mattresses available—but finding the right size can be tricky. Most RVs come with non-standard mattress sizes that aren’t easy to replace at regular stores.
That’s why Tri City RV stocks a great selection of custom-cut mattresses designed to fit nearly any RV bed size. Whether you’re looking for more comfort, better support, or a longer-lasting option, we can help you find the right upgrade for your specific floorplan.
Stop in or give us a call if you're ready to sleep better on your next trip.
Does Tri City RV offer mobile repair?
Yes, Tri City RV offers mobile repair services during our non-peak (non-red) months. If you need an on-site service during busier times or in areas we don’t currently cover, we can help connect you with a trusted mobile RV technician.
We work with a small, vetted network of mobile repair professionals and only recommend those who have consistently met our standards for quality and reliability. If you need mobile service at your site or seasonal lot, reach out—we’ll help point you in the right direction.
Does Tri City RV have a dump station on site?
Yes, we have a dump station at our dealership, but it is for staff use only. If you need to have your RV dumped, just contact us—we’re happy to schedule a service appointment.
Here’s what we provide:
- Our team performs the dump for you
- We then refill your tank with fresh water and dump it again for a semi-full flush
- If you’re looking for a full flush and tank sanitizing service, we can schedule that as well
Give us a call or send a message—we’ll make sure your tanks are properly taken care of.